Weekly Reviews Vol. 5

Vinodrome Reviews Vol. 5

5/31/2009

The following ratings are based on representative correctness (concerning both place of origin and varietal) and “price-to-value” ratio.

El Castro de Valtuille Bierzo Mencia Joven 2007

Region: Bierzo, Leon, Spain
Winery: Bodega y Vinedos Castro Ventosa
Variety: Mencia

Raspberry, redcurrant, and black cherry with bright minerality. Youthful acidity adds to an overall impression of zest and focus. I suspect, however, that I might be inclined to appreciate this wine more in a year or so (when its texture will have, presumably, become a bit softer).

  • $14.99

  • 3.5/5 Stars.

Mas Carlot Marsanne – Roussanne Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007

Eastern Languedoc (Vin de Pays d’Oc), France
Winery: Mas Carlot
Variety: Marsanne(60%), Roussanne(40%)

Ripe Asian pear and tropical fruit intermingle with summer flowers and lively spice. This is a great (and sensitively priced) alternative to more expensive Rhone whites, proudly representing the style’s most desirable qualities. Highly recommended!

  • $11.99

  • 4/5 Stars.

Villa Giada Barbera d’Asti 2007

Region: Asti, Piemonte, Italy
Winery: Villa Giada / Andrea Faccio
Variety: Barbera

Black cherry and redcurrant with bright minerality and subtle spicy undertones. An exuberant and youthful wine, this pairs versatilely with light hors-d’oeuvres and cheeses. This wine benefits from malolactic conversion for at least part of the cuvee, resulting in a softer, more opulent consistency than that of many similarly priced Barberas.

  • $13.99

  • 4/5 Stars.

Tramin Lagrein Alto-Adige 2005

Region: Suditrol – Alto Adige, Italy
Winery: Cantina Tramin
Variety: Lagrein

Plum, black raspberry, and cherry with threads of spicy minerality and chocolate. A pleasant tartness helps the wine to remain conspicuous on the palate. The Lagrein grape, an unlikely relative of Syrah and Pinot Noir, is capable of producing serious (and seriously delicious) reds in Alto Adige, where red wine is clearly a minority.

  • $19.99

  • 3.5/5 Stars

Chateau de Segries Cotes-du-Rhone 2007

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau de Segries
Variety: Grenache(50%), Syrah(30%), Cinsault(10%), Carignon(10%)

Indulgent flavors of raspberry and cherry reveal notes of white pepper and thyme. Chiseled acidity and fine tannins add to a refreshing and savory quality. This extroverted young wine is drinking very generously right now, but might improve over the course of the next year. – 05/28/2009

  • $12.99

  • 4/5 Stars.

E. Guigal Cotes Du Rhone 2005

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: E. Guigal
Variety: Syrah(55%), Grenache(45%)

Now here is a Cotes-du-Rhone which could easily pass as a representative for one of the region’s more exalted villages. Blackberry, currant, and black raspberry woven through layers of pepper and garrigue. This pairs beautifully with braised lamb over baked Turkish figs and caramelized onions. A truly remarkable value.

  • $11.99

  • 4.5/5 Stars.

Chateau L’Ermitage Nimes Rouge 2007

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau L’Ermitage
Variety: Grenache(70%), Syrah(30%)

Concentrated raspberry and cherry with spice and a bit of pepper. A fairly generic but very apt example of the current wave of young 2007 Rhones.

  • $9.99

  • 3/5 Stars.

Tegernseerhof Zweigelt Rose 2008

Region: Niederosterrich(Lower Austria), Austria
Winery: Tegernseerhof
Variety: Blauer Zweigelt

Bright redcurrant, tart raspberry, and strawberry wrapped in delicious waves of mouth-tingling acidity. This is one of the most pleasant roses I’ve had so far this year. Utterly indulgent and refreshing!

  • $11.99

  • 4.5/5 Stars.

Phillipe Le Hardi Mercurey Premier Cru 2005

Region: Mercurey, Cote Chalonnaise, Burgandy, France
Winery: Phillipe Le Hardi
Variety: Pinot Noir

I’ve always enjoyed the whites from Phillipe Le Hardy, but very seldom the reds. This, however, is an enjoyable Burgundy at a relatively low price. Pleasantly tart black cherry and wild berries with hints of vanilla and toast. Praiseworthy concentration and depth of color. I can’t help, however, but think that the overall personality of this wine would better suit something like Barbera than Chalonnaise Pinot Noir.

  • $24.99

  • 2.5/5 Stars.

Carchelo “C” Jumilla 2007

Region: Jumilla, Spain
Winery: Bodegas Carchelo
Variety: Monastrell(40%), Syrah(40%), Cabernet Sauvignon(20%)

Plum, black raspberry, and redcurrant with underlying spice and dark chocolate gaining resonance as the wine breathes. The balance here of youthful assertiveness and (somewhat concealed) depth of character make this a very enjoyable red.

  • $14.99

  • 3.5/5 Stars.

Korta Carmenere 2007

Region: Sagrada Familia – Lontue Valley, Chile
Winery: Korta
Variety: Carmenere(85%), Cabernet Sauvignon(8%), other varietals(7%)

Ripe blackberry and plum exude notes of milk chocolate and jalapeño pepper (without the heat, of course). An interesting note of brambly vegetation emerges (without being vegetal) and nicely complements the oaken flavors derived from twelve months in French and American barrels.

  • $9.99

  • 4/5 Stars.

Redi Rosso di Montepulciano 2005

Region: Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy
Winery: Cantina Del Redi (Vecchia Cantina)
Variety: Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo, Mammolo

Cherry and somewhat tart wild berries underscored by herbs and a hint of wood. There is something oddly briny on the nose that I don’t know how to account for, and that particular quality takes the enjoyability down a notch or so. However, the fruit character is pleasant, and the texture is appealing.

  • $12.99

  • 2.5/5 Stars.

Chateau Corconnac Haut-Medoc 2003

Region: Haut-Medoc
Winery: Teynac et Corconnac
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon(70%, 30%)

Cassis and plum with well integrated notes of oak and an appropriately vegitative quality. The ripeness and roundness of fruit provide the Corconnac with a specific character that I’ve grown to associate with 2003 in Left-Bank Bordeaux. A bit more acidity could have improved the texture. Overall, a rewarding wine at a good price.

  • $14.99

  • 3.5/5 Stars.

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