Vinodrome

Vinodrome Notes Vol. 7

7/13/2009

Sadly, It’s been a month since the previous update to Vinodrome, but this latest update is a fun  and reasonably thorough look at the wines of Nimes (both Costieres de Nimes AOC and Vin du Pays du Gard).  The reds have proven to be very nice, but it’s the roses and whites which have really shined.

Château Mourgues du Grès Costières de Nîmes Rouge “Capitelles des Mourgues” 2005

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Château Mourgues du Grès
Variety: Syrah, Grenache

Black plum and raspberry with pervasive chocolate and notes of toasted almond adding interest. The overall texture is quite creamy and gentle, certainly not contradicting an overall impression of mild-mannered well-behavedness. While the wine is tasty and interesting, I would have appreciated a bit more assertiveness.

Chateau L’Ermitage Nimes Rose 2008

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau L’Ermitage
Variety: Syrah(50%), Grenache(30%), Mourvedre(20%)

Medium salmon color with traces of bright magenta. Raspberry and crisp red cherry with a subtle herbal bitterness which enhances enjoyability.

Chateau Grande Cassagne “G.S” Costieres de Nimes 2007

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau Grande Cassagne
Variety: Grenache(60%), Syrah(40%)

Very healthy (and heady) raspberry and dark cherry fruit with sweet herbal undertones and a generous suggestion of licorice There’s a simplicity here which is both deliciously focused and slightly anti-climactic. Overall, I find this wine to be rewarding and another youthful example of the southern Rhone’s vibrant 2007 vintage.

Chateau Grande Cassagne Costieres de Nimes “Les Rameaux” Rose 2008

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau Grande Cassagne
Variety: Grenache(60%), Syrah(35%), Mourvedre(5%)

An almost extraterrestrial deep magenta fading into more easily anticipated salmon hues. The fruit here is round and ripe with moderate but insistent acidity. Raspberry and white-fleshed red plum with a touch of white pepper and garrigue endow this wine with a linear elegance and deliciousness.

Domaine Des Cantarelles “Syrah de Fayel” 2005

Region: Nimes (Vin de Pays du Gard), Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Domaine Des Cantarelles
Variety: Syrah

Black cherry, milk chocolate, and something very like sweet glycerine. Barnyard-esque notes and a bit of smoke on the nose aren’t very suggestive of the wine’s relatively fruit forward personality in the mouth. There’s a bit of dustiness that adds interest (while possibly detracting from overall drinkability). A long-lingering sharpness on the finish seriously compromises what might otherwise have been a much more enjoyable wine. This hasn’t held up at all well. (Tasted twice with consistent results)

Domaine Des Cantarelles Cabernet / Syrah 2004

Region: Nimes (Vin de Pays du Gard)
Winery: Domaine Des Cantarelles
Variety: Syrah(60%), Cabernet Sauvignon(60%)
This is basically a partial retraction of my previously written opinion (posted 5/11/09 in the third volume of this blog). I recently came across an unopened case of this wine, and upon re-tasting it from a bottle which had been stored more carefully, I can say that it’s actually remaining fairly vibrant and robust. The cassis, black cherry, chocolate, etc. still apply. Below is my former impression:

Rich cassis and black cherry bound together with notes of chocolate, espresso, and toasty oak. There is a bit of sharpness that makes me feel as though this wine may be aging out faster than it ought to. I would have given it close to five stars two years ago, but longevity matters (in a wine which should be able to age). – 05/07/2009

Chateau De Valcombe “Prestige” Costieres de Nimes 2004

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau De Valcombe
Variety: Syrah (70%), Grenache (30%)

Focused cassis and black raspberry support a rustic but delicate combination of sweet earth, toast, and bitter herbs. The influence of oak is apparent while remaining unobtrusive. Very nice value.

Chateau De Valcombe “Les Pins” Costieres de Nimes 2007

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau De Valcombe
Variety: Syrah (60%), Grenache (40%)

In many ways, this is very like the Chateau’s “Prestige” cuvee, but brighter and lacking the earthier and more oak-driven characteristics. Blackberry, dark cherry, and plum with restrained notes of white pepper and something reminiscent of thyme. The straight-forward youthfulness here is both refreshing and very satisfying.

Mas des Bressades Syrah Grenache 2005

Region: Nimes (Vin de Pays du Gard), Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Mas des Bressades
Variety: Syrah(60%) Grenache(40%)

Ripe cassis, cherry, and black raspberry yield undertones of milk chocolate and fennelseed. There is (perhaps surprisingly) a real grace and subtlety at this stage of the wine’s life, and it remains intact and virile.

Michel Gassier “Lou Coucardie” Nimes 2003

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Syrah(70%), Mourvedre(20%), Grenache(10%)

Very ripe fruit character suggesting plum, red raspberry, and date. Undertones of milk chocolate, toast, and garrigue add intrigue. Unfortunately, this wine is beginning to show signs of premature decrepitude, which is a real shame especially considering its style and clear ambition of ageworthiness. I’m a fan of the work of Michel Gassier and Chateau de Nages, but this particular vintage of the Coucardie cuvee doesn’t rise to the standards which it’s previously set for itself. (Tasted three times with consistent results)

Chateau De Nages “Cuvée Joseph Torrès Red” 2003

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Syrah(95%), Mourvedre(5%)

Purple fruit recalling plum and blackberry reveals notes of anise and sandalwood. The tannins are very soft, but provide the wine with enough skeleton to hold it upright. While this tastes as though it has a few good years left to it, I’m not at all in agreement with the Chateau’s claim that it could age gracefully for ten to twelve years.

Chateau De Nages “Vieilles Vignes Red” 2006

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache(60%), Syrah(30%), Mourvedre(10%)

This is almost certainly the highlight among the recent reds which I’ve tasted from Nimes. Its firmness of bold youthful fruit and tannin support an indulgent combination of rich earth, toast, and hot stone. This has the structural integrity to continue improving for a couple of years, I suspect, and is a real powerhouse at a very sensitive price.

Chateau De Nages “Reserve Red” 2007

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages
Variety: Grenache(70%), Syrah(30%)

Cherry and black raspberry merge with spicy pepper and anise. There’s a bit of very specific “Easter-egg-dye” on the finish which I’ve noticed in a couple vintages of this particular wine (as well as in many other wines using synthetic corks). I attribute this to bottling or storage rather than an inherent flaw in the wine itself. It’s difficult, however, to determine just how delicious the wine might have been without this (albeit subtle) detractor.

Chateau De Nages “Vieilles Vignes White” Costieres de Nimes 2008

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache Blanc(50%), Roussanne(40%), Viognier(10%)

Round tropical fruit reminiscent of guava and honeydew merges with more typical threads of pear and white peach. Toasty notes merge seamlessly with the floral aroma and bright minerality. A polished, creamy texture adds to an overall impression of elegance, but I would prefer just a bit more acidity to enhance the wine’s tactile presence.

Chateau De Nages “Reserve White” 2008

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache Blanc(60%), Roussanne(40%)

Bright Asian pear and guava enriched with white flowers and chiseled minerality. The texture and consistency of the wine could be compared to a modern Maconnais Chardonnay, reconciling its full-figured mouthfeel with refreshing brightness. 2008 is regarded as the Rhone’s first disappointing vintage in six years, but the whites and roses have, in my experience, been pretty exciting so far.

• $9.99

• 4/5 Stars.

July 13, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Vinodrome Notes Vol. 6

6/12/2009

This week features wines from Crozes-Hermitage, Burgundy, the Haut-Medoc, Austria, and more.  The following ratings are based on representative correctness (concerning both place of origin and varietal) and “price-to-value” ratio.

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage “Nouvelere” 2006

Region: Crozes-Hermitage
Winery: Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet
Variety: Syrah

Blackberry, cassis, and mission fig with a distinct Northern Rhone signature of earth, dark chocolate, and leather. The color is deep burgundy with gleams of ruby clarity. I’m completely smitten with this as I’m perpetually craving a really good Northern Rhone (but can seldom afford one). Seaboard Wine Warehouse in Raleigh currently has this at half price!

Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Les Pontaix 2005

Region: Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhone, France
Winery: Jean Claude Fayolle
Variety: Syrah

Savory black raspberries and plum cling to the palette as restrained gamey notes emerge from the mostly fruit-driven aroma. Of the four vintages I’ve tasted, the 2005 “Les Pontaix” is certainly the most enjoyable and the most admirably balanced. This isn’t the best Crozes at its pricepoint, but it’s a wonderful expression of healthy Syrah et terroir.

Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage 2005

Region: Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône, France
Winery: Cave de Tain l’Hermitage
Variety: Syrah

Lean, black purity of cassis and plum with bitter chocolate notes and a gentle touch of oak. At fifteen dollars, it’s certainly not easy to find a better representative of the Northern Rhone, but this wine does lack specificity to some degree. One isn’t overwhelmed when tasting this at the extent to which it is a Crozes-Hermitage, and I would prefer to be overwhelmed in that regard. Still, this wine (not to mention the history-rich Cave de Tain L’Hermitage itself) represents very good value.

Domaine de la Curniere 2006

Region: Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Vignerons de Caractère
Variety: Grenache(80%), Syrah(20%)

Black raspberry, cherry, and dried cranberry with white pepper, violets, and a hint of sweet earth. This wine’s consistency in the mouth suggests leanness and a clearly defined physique comprised of dark fruit.

Santola Vinho Verde 2008

Region: Minho / Vinho Verde, Portugal
Winery: Santola

Lime and crisp granny smith apples with the delicate effervescence that helps to make good Vinho Verde (arguably) the ultimate “patio wine”. This is an archetypal example of fresh, crisp Vinho Verde.

Patrick Javillier Bourgogne Blanc “Cuvee des Forgets” 2006

Region: Savigny Les Beaune, Burgundy, France
Winery: Patrick Javillier
Variety: Chardonnay

Ripe green apple, pear, and soft lemon with a rounded toastiness which compliments the fruit nicely. This 2006 is drinking very well right now (in mid 2009), but it’s difficult to say just how much longer it will maintain its vibrancy. I suspect that it’s wisest to have at it now and look to the 2007 for future enjoyment.

Patrick Javillier Pernand-Vergelesses 2005

Region: Pernand-Vergelesses, Beaune, Burgundy, France
Winery: Patrick Javillier
Variety: Pinot Noir

Lean cherry and currant with pronounced meaty notes and a generous smoky undercurrent. Despite the chiseled (and somewhat austere) quality of the fruit, there manages to be a hedonistic richness about this wine which is very satisfying. Decanting is a must for the time being.

Machard de Gramont Chorey-les-Beaune “Les Beaumonts” 2005

Region: Chorey-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France
Winery: Domaine A. Machard de Gramont
Variety: Pinot Noir

Plum and black cherry with creamy notes of vanilla and spicy oak. This is an elegant Beaune Pinot at a fair price. It is a bit imbalanced, however, tasting a bit sharp upon opening and losing too much of its fruit and energy after decanting. Overall, it’s a good option at the twenty dollar mark, but the Domaine (which is based out of Nuits-Saint-Georges) not surprisingly performs better with its more expensive wines.

Louis Bouillot Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs “Perle de Nuit” Brut NV

Region: Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy, France
Winery: Louis Bouillot
Variety: Pinot Noir, Gamay

Pear, apple, and fresh fig with an ever so slight kiss of toast. There is a yeasty undertone which adds to an impression of fullness without confusing the bright youthfulness which is probably the wine’s strongest attribute. Over the years, I’ve relied heavily on the Louis Bouillot series great everyday values in bubbly.

Chateau D’Arcins Haut-Medoc 2005

Region: Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, France
Winery: Chateau D’Arcins
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Cassis and plumb with a bit of vanilla and cedar. Pleasantly vegetative with a hint of something which might resemble kale or parsley on the finish. This is from just southwest of Saint-Julien. – 06/10/2009

Chateau Tour du Mayne Haut-Medoc 2005. 1, 2009

Region: Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, France
Winery: Chateau D’Arcins
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Bold plum and currant with brambly herbs and complexity-boosting oak influence. There’s a bit of dark chocolate and leather on the finish. Ripe and approachable (even if a bit on the austere side).

Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner “Gmork” 2007

Region: Wagram / Donauland, Austria
Winery: Anton Bauer
Variety: Gruner Veltliner

Asian pear and ripe green apple with zesty citrus and well-defined mineral undertones. This is a great example of how competently many Gruner Veltliners merge refreshing airiness with depth of character and deliciousness.

Anton Bauer Rose 2008

Region: Wagram / Donauland, Austria
Winery: Anton Bauer
Variety: Blauer Zweigelt(34%), Syrah(33%), Merlot(33%)

Round strawberry and red raspberry with hints of violet or lilac. The wine’s expressive aroma is very compelling, and there is an admirable richness of flavor, but I would prefer a sharper more refreshing texture from a youthful rose such as this.

La Doria Gavi 2007

Region: Gavi, Piemonte, Italy
Winery: Villa Lanata
Variety: Cortese

Passionfruit and tangerine supplemented by soft floral notes. The acidity has fallen off considerably for a Gavi which has been in the bottle for one year only. It’s pleasant, but slightly disappointing in the department of vitality.

• $13.99

• 3/5 Stars.

June 13, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Vinodrome Reviews Vol. 5

5/31/2009

The following ratings are based on representative correctness (concerning both place of origin and varietal) and “price-to-value” ratio.

El Castro de Valtuille Bierzo Mencia Joven 2007

Region: Bierzo, Leon, Spain
Winery: Bodega y Vinedos Castro Ventosa
Variety: Mencia

Raspberry, redcurrant, and black cherry with bright minerality. Youthful acidity adds to an overall impression of zest and focus. I suspect, however, that I might be inclined to appreciate this wine more in a year or so (when its texture will have, presumably, become a bit softer).

Mas Carlot Marsanne – Roussanne Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007

Eastern Languedoc (Vin de Pays d’Oc), France
Winery: Mas Carlot
Variety: Marsanne(60%), Roussanne(40%)

Ripe Asian pear and tropical fruit intermingle with summer flowers and lively spice. This is a great (and sensitively priced) alternative to more expensive Rhone whites, proudly representing the style’s most desirable qualities. Highly recommended!

Villa Giada Barbera d’Asti 2007

Region: Asti, Piemonte, Italy
Winery: Villa Giada / Andrea Faccio
Variety: Barbera

Black cherry and redcurrant with bright minerality and subtle spicy undertones. An exuberant and youthful wine, this pairs versatilely with light hors-d’oeuvres and cheeses. This wine benefits from malolactic conversion for at least part of the cuvee, resulting in a softer, more opulent consistency than that of many similarly priced Barberas.

Tramin Lagrein Alto-Adige 2005

Region: Suditrol – Alto Adige, Italy
Winery: Cantina Tramin
Variety: Lagrein

Plum, black raspberry, and cherry with threads of spicy minerality and chocolate. A pleasant tartness helps the wine to remain conspicuous on the palate. The Lagrein grape, an unlikely relative of Syrah and Pinot Noir, is capable of producing serious (and seriously delicious) reds in Alto Adige, where red wine is clearly a minority.

Chateau de Segries Cotes-du-Rhone 2007

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau de Segries
Variety: Grenache(50%), Syrah(30%), Cinsault(10%), Carignon(10%)

Indulgent flavors of raspberry and cherry reveal notes of white pepper and thyme. Chiseled acidity and fine tannins add to a refreshing and savory quality. This extroverted young wine is drinking very generously right now, but might improve over the course of the next year. – 05/28/2009

E. Guigal Cotes Du Rhone 2005

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: E. Guigal
Variety: Syrah(55%), Grenache(45%)

Now here is a Cotes-du-Rhone which could easily pass as a representative for one of the region’s more exalted villages. Blackberry, currant, and black raspberry woven through layers of pepper and garrigue. This pairs beautifully with braised lamb over baked Turkish figs and caramelized onions. A truly remarkable value.

Chateau L’Ermitage Nimes Rouge 2007

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau L’Ermitage
Variety: Grenache(70%), Syrah(30%)

Concentrated raspberry and cherry with spice and a bit of pepper. A fairly generic but very apt example of the current wave of young 2007 Rhones.

Tegernseerhof Zweigelt Rose 2008

Region: Niederosterrich(Lower Austria), Austria
Winery: Tegernseerhof
Variety: Blauer Zweigelt

Bright redcurrant, tart raspberry, and strawberry wrapped in delicious waves of mouth-tingling acidity. This is one of the most pleasant roses I’ve had so far this year. Utterly indulgent and refreshing!

Phillipe Le Hardi Mercurey Premier Cru 2005

Region: Mercurey, Cote Chalonnaise, Burgandy, France
Winery: Phillipe Le Hardi
Variety: Pinot Noir

I’ve always enjoyed the whites from Phillipe Le Hardy, but very seldom the reds. This, however, is an enjoyable Burgundy at a relatively low price. Pleasantly tart black cherry and wild berries with hints of vanilla and toast. Praiseworthy concentration and depth of color. I can’t help, however, but think that the overall personality of this wine would better suit something like Barbera than Chalonnaise Pinot Noir.

Carchelo “C” Jumilla 2007

Region: Jumilla, Spain
Winery: Bodegas Carchelo
Variety: Monastrell(40%), Syrah(40%), Cabernet Sauvignon(20%)

Plum, black raspberry, and redcurrant with underlying spice and dark chocolate gaining resonance as the wine breathes. The balance here of youthful assertiveness and (somewhat concealed) depth of character make this a very enjoyable red.

Korta Carmenere 2007

Region: Sagrada Familia – Lontue Valley, Chile
Winery: Korta
Variety: Carmenere(85%), Cabernet Sauvignon(8%), other varietals(7%)

Ripe blackberry and plum exude notes of milk chocolate and jalapeño pepper (without the heat, of course). An interesting note of brambly vegetation emerges (without being vegetal) and nicely complements the oaken flavors derived from twelve months in French and American barrels.

Redi Rosso di Montepulciano 2005

Region: Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy
Winery: Cantina Del Redi (Vecchia Cantina)
Variety: Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo, Mammolo

Cherry and somewhat tart wild berries underscored by herbs and a hint of wood. There is something oddly briny on the nose that I don’t know how to account for, and that particular quality takes the enjoyability down a notch or so. However, the fruit character is pleasant, and the texture is appealing.

Chateau Corconnac Haut-Medoc 2003

Region: Haut-Medoc
Winery: Teynac et Corconnac
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon(70%, 30%)

Cassis and plum with well integrated notes of oak and an appropriately vegitative quality. The ripeness and roundness of fruit provide the Corconnac with a specific character that I’ve grown to associate with 2003 in Left-Bank Bordeaux. A bit more acidity could have improved the texture. Overall, a rewarding wine at a good price.

• $14.99

• 3.5/5 Stars.

June 1, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Weekly Vinodrome Reviews

5/11/2009-5/18/2009

Quinta do Portal Fine White Port

Region: Douro, Portugal (Porto)
Winery: Quinta do Portal

Lemon and apricot with a distinct smattering of aromatic honey adding dimensionality. This is lovely as either aperitif or dessert. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Pedro Branco, Portal’s proprietor, and thoroughly enjoyed tasting through a large cross-section of the estate’s portfolio. This wine, which I was already familiar with, and the Moscatel were two of the highlights.

Sauvion Rose d’Anjou 2008

Region: Anjou, Loire, France
Winery: Sauvion
Variety: Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pineau d’Aunis

Strawberry and red raspberry with a vague peppery quality. This wine is not without elegance, but its austerity never quite unfolds into anything particularly exciting. The watery consistency helps to create an impression of disintegration. It’s as if each individual nuance, the alcohol, and even the acidity are disembodied and apart from the whole of the wine itself. – 05/20/2009

Sanrocchetto Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2007

Region: Jesi, Marches, Italy
Winery: Sanrocchetto
Variety: Verdicchio

Pear, lemon, and lime with notes of freshly crushed stone and cashew. At the ten-dollar price range, this is an impressively expressive wine. It really should be approached, though, before a year after its harvest. Drinking this particular vintage (2007) now (in May of 2009) is not nearly so rewarding as it had been at around this time last year.

Tres Ojos “Old Vines” Garnacha 2007

Region: Calatayud, Aragon, Spain
Winery: Bodega San Gregorio
Variety: Garnacha

From Spain’s arid Calatayud region, comes this fresh and concentrated Garnacha from old vines. Black raspberry, cherry, and dried cranberry reveal a bit of white pepper and fennel blossom. While pleasant, there are both an alcoholic heat and a slight impression of reduction which hamper enjoyment. These are eased as the wine breathes a bit. Decanting would be wiser still. I typically serve red wine in the low to mid sixties (degrees Fahrenheit), but here I would advocate a temperature of around 55 degrees.

Kupelwieser Pinot Grigio 2006

Region: Alto Adige, Italy
Winery: Kupelwieser Alto Adige
Variety: Pinot Grigio

Asian pear and threads of bright citrus enlivened by a subtle (but focused) minerality. This wine has enjoyed more expressive vintages in the past, but for the time being it’s a bit tamer than I’d prefer. Produced by Peter Zemmer of Alto Adige/South Tyrol fame.

Mitolo “Jester” Shiraz 2006

Region: McLaren Vale, Australia
Winery: Mitolo
Variety: Shiraz

Ripe blackberry and plum underlined by black pepper, pipe tobacco, and a touch of white chocolate (presumably from French oak). As an enormous admirer of Syrah as a varietal, I am usually less than enthusiastic about Australia’s often outlandishly exuberant “Shiraz.” This wine, however, escapes the willful stereotype role assumed by many of its colleagues. Charming.

Domaine des Baguiers Bandol 2001

Region: Bandol, Provence, France
Winery: Domaine des Baguiers
Variety: Mourvedre

Currant and black cherry with veins of cocoa, Vietnamese coffee, and a faint touch of bitter cola. The Baguiers is round and soft in its maturity, but lacks vibrancy of fruit. It’s a shame as the estate recommends holding the wine for a number of years. Many people advocate aging Bandol for over a decade, but I’ll take mine (like most long-lived reds) much earlier. Of course, the very best estates produce wines which may require more time to evolve.

Jean Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace “Brut Reserve” NV

Region: Alsace
Winery: Lucien Albrecht
Variety: Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois

Pear, lemon fraiche, and crisp golden apple supported by notes of sourdough bready-ness, toast, and a faint hint of ginger. There is some controversy over exactly what the “Jean Albrecht” label represents. It is exclusive to the Total Wine retail chain and may be nothing more than an alternate title for the classic “Lucien Albrecht” wines. On the other hand, it may entail separate bottlings of different cuvees (presumably inferior ones to maximize profits). The latter possibility is rumored to have been admitted by a representative of the winery who recently visited Raleigh. Any difference in quality is particularly difficult to surmise from my having tasted the two white Cremants d’Alsace on many occasions. Stylistically, they have appeared to shift several times over the years, and since they’re non-vintage, it is impossible to know whether any changes in character are due to inconsistencies in the wines themselves or are simply the result of varying degrees of maturity in various bottles. Whatever the case, this particular bottle of Jean Albrecht Cremant was delicious. – 05/18/2009

Rene Mure Cremant d’Alsace NV

Region: France – Alsace
Winery: Rene Mure
Variety: Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir

Bright pear and gentle citrus merge gracefully with creamier components of yeast, toast, and sweet dough. While a bit lighter than one might expect from a Champagne, this wine has a balance that many lack. Very rewarding bottle.

Ortas (Cave de Rasteau) “Prestige” Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau 2004

Region: Rasteau, Cotes du Rhone Villages, France
Winery: Ortas (Cave de Rasteau)
Variety: Grenache(35%), Mourvedre(35%),Syrah(30%)

Raspberry, blackberry, and currant with essences of cracked pepper, pipe tobacco, anise liqueur, and savory earth. Seldom do I cross paths with a more complete and intensely delicious wine at the twenty dollar mark.

Domaine Guy Mousset Cotes-Du-Rhone Rose 2008
Region: Cotes-du-Rhone, France
Winery: Domaine Guy Mousset
Variety: Grenache, Syrah

Crisp red raspberry, cherry, and currant on the nose which boldly follow through to the palate. There is a pleasant contradiction between the expressive fruit and the refreshing abruptness of the wine’s texture. A suggestion of creaminess finds its way around the mid-palate and may be the product of malolactic conversion in a bit of the cuvee. I actually think that this is a more graceful wine than the estate’s overpriced Chateauneufs.

Chateau Guibon Entre-Deux-Mers Blanc 2007
Region: Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux
Winery: Chateau Guibon
Variety: Semillon(60%), Sauvignon Blanc(30%), Muscadelle(10%)

Crisp green fruits such as lime and guava wrap around the anticipated grapefruit and lemon character of white Bordeaux. A bit of herb and mineral (but very little grassiness) add interest. Firmer acidity would have saved this wine from the watery consistency that is its largest detractor. Still pleasant.

All ratings are based on representative correctness and “price-to-value” ratio.

May 22, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Weekly Vinodrome Reviews

4/29/2009-5/11/2009

Jean-Luc Colombo Syrah “La Violette” VDP d’Oc 2006
Region: Eastern Languedoc, France (Vin de Pays d’Oc)
Winery: Jean-Luc Colombo
Variety: Syrah

Ripe blackberryand plum merge with Provencal herbs and black pepper. There is a pleasant chewy quality supported by vanilla and a touch of cedar, but a subtle tartness interferes with the texture and limits the wine’s enjoyability. The somewhat hard to find Colombo northern Cotes du Rhone “Les Forots” Syrah is a few dollars more, but more exciting.

Region: Valpolicella, Italy
Winery: Ca Rugate
Variety: Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%), Rondinella (30%)

Not strictly made as a “Ripasso,” this offering from Ca Rugate is more like an adolescent Amarone produced largely from grapes which have been dried (for roughly half the time as those destined for Amarone). Rich purple fruit, chocolate, and spicy toast make this a memorable wine.

Region: Sonoma County, California
Winery: Ridge Vineyards
Variety: Zinfandel(80%), Petite Sirah(10%), Carignan(5%), Grenache(5%)

Immersive black raspberry and blueberry wrapped around a core of smoke, white pepper, and herbs. Ridge has always been more than capable of proving the potential seriousness and elegance of the Zinfandel grape and its capacity for successful terroir-driven application.

Region: Valpolicella Classico, Verona, Italy
Winery: Santi
Variety: Corvina(65%), Rondinella(30%), Molinara(5%)

Full and supple, the Santi “Solane” is an apt example of both Valpolicella as a region and its lovely Ripasso wines (frequently offering a rare combination of bold concentration and easily approached roundness). Mission fig, plum, and sweet red cherries largely comprise the fruit character with creamy vanilla oak and clove adding interest.

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache(70%) Syrah(30%)

Vivid strawberry, cranberry, and white-fleshed plum punctuate this refreshing rose from Nimes. Brimming with life and bright acidity, this is a wonderful treat for late spring and is very enjoyable with unsweetened strawberries just short of ripeness. Youthful and charming!

Region: Seixas, Portugal
Winery: Quinta do Feital
Variety: Alvarinho/Albarino(50%), Trajadura(50%)

Bright white peach, cantaloupe, and tangerine with spicy minerality and wispy floral nuances. The overall impression is that of something vibrant and valuable in its exotic wisdom. Delicious!

Montresor “Castello di Soave” Soave Classico 2008

Region: Soave, Verona, Italy
Winery: Giacomo Montresor
Variety: Gargenega(80%), Verdicchio(20%)

Crisp (pre-ripe) nectarine and a touch of orange converge with light minerality and a bit of peanut or almond. The overall impression is very pleasant, but the flavor and sensation of alcohol are maybe a bit too pervasive.

Region: Valdobbiadene, Italy
Winery: Nino Franco
Variety: Prosecco di Valdobbiadene

Fuji apple and subtle spring blossoms emerge from the frothy surface of Nino Franco’s “entry-level” Prosecco. A delicate, airy texture adds to its wholesome and refreshing quality.

Region: Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Vignerons de Caractère
Variety: Grenache(70%), Syrah(20%), Mourvedre(10%)

Round plum, candied raspberry, and currant comprise the fruit character with notes of chocolate, tobacco, and lavender gently emanating from within. The wines of the Vingnerons de Caracter have grown much more exciting over a remarkably short half-decade or so (though they’ve been around since 1957). They’re definitely producing their Vacqueyras in a contemporary fruit-forward style utilizing an average of 30% carbonic maceration in their various cuvees.

Region: Bordeaux
Winery: Chateau Les Trois Croix
Variety: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Plum and black cherry with fresh herbs and coffee. I wouldn’t accuse this wine of having aged poorly, but it was certainly more enjoyable in its youth when it benefited from healthier acidity and more brazen dark fruit character.

Region: Coteaux du Languedoc, France
Winery: Chateau de Montpezat
Variety: Grenache(80%), Mourvedre(20%)

Filled with bold earth and ripe purple fruits, the “Palombieres” has both a taught spine and plenty of meat on its bones. A trace of vanilla from twelve months in barrel is mostly obscured by the wine’s fruit and terroir-driven characteristics. A Robert Kacher selection.

Region: Navarra, Spain
Winery: Artazu (Artadi)
Variety: Garnacha

Fresh, extroverted aromas of crisp red raspberry and currant. Lively on the palate, ribboned with white pepper and an invigorating mineral purity. The Artazuri is produced in a style largely dissimilar to the estate’s “Santa Cruz,” but the two have in common their aromatic intensity, Grenache-driven charisma, and generosity of flavor. Lovely.

Region: Cote de Nuits
Winery: Louis Bouillot
Variety: Pinot Noir

Bright strawberry, raspberry, and white-fleshed plum. There’s certainly a detectable richness of yeast, but the overall impression is that of refreshing crispness and youthful energy. Very pretty salmon hue.

Region: Douro, Portugal
Winery: Quinta de Ventozelo
Variety: Codega(30%), Gouveio(30%), Viosinho(20%), Rabigato(20%)

Racy and refreshing, filled with crisp green fruits like lime, kiwi, and Uzbek cantaloupe. I’m not certain about the origin of the title “Cister da Ribeira,” but it seems as though it may have been part of the historical identity that later contributed to the Quinta de Ventozelo (which basically over-delivers in terms of value with each release). Nice spring/summer quaff which isn’t overly simple.

May 15, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Weekly Vinodrome Reviews

4/20/2009-4/27/2009

El Seque Alicante 2004

Region: Alicante
Winery: El Sequé
Variety: Monastrell (Mourvedre)

Veritably opaque in the glass (deep ruby with bright garnet at the rim), this is certainly a powerhouse. Contrary to its color, however, it is far from being a viscous mess. Lively acidity, freshness of fruit and a marked minerality make the balance marvelous (even if in a slightly Robert Parkeresque sort of way). Concentrated black plum, cassis, and black cherry are supplemented with a rich canopy of spices and herbs. Highly recommended. – 04/27/2009

$44.99

5 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Chateau De Nages “Reserve White” Costieres de Nimes 2006

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache Blanc(60%), Roussanne(40%)

Pear, white peach, and honeysuckle are the prime facets of this lovely Nimes Blanc. Ripe, round fruit is tempered nicely with crisp acidity and bright floral notes. – 04/27/2009

$9.99

3 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Michel Gassier “Les Piliers” Syrah 2005

Region: Costieres de Nimes
Winery: Michel Gassier / Ch de Nages
Variety: Syrah

Dense, dark, and brimming with sweet earthy undercurrents, the “Les Piliers” Syrah is a rich Mediterranean expression of the varietal. Cassis, blackberry, and prune smother a tapestry of spices and vanilla. Pairs beautifully with an Ethiopian-fusion lamb&lentil dish prepared with turmeric, cumin, curry, and paprika over injera bread. – 04/27/2009

$14.99

4 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Bougrier Rose d’Anjou 2008

Region: Anjou, Loire, France
Winery: Noel Bougrier / Les Caves de l’Angevine
Variety: Cabernet Franc

Bright, clear ruby in the glass with a trace of magenta, the Bougrier Rose d’Anjou has a wonderfully expressive nose of ripe raspberry, strawberry, and red plum. This was very enjoyable with a plate of chicken and shrimp lightly seasoned with sesame oil. – 04/27/2009

$9.99

3 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Conde de Vimioso Ribatejano 2006

Region: Ribatejano, Portugal
Winery: Falua
Variety: Touriga Nacional, Aragones (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon

Certainly a wine which well over-delivers at its price, the Conde de Vimioso falls (both geographically and stylistically) somewhere between Douro and Alentejano. Cassis, mission fig, dried cranberry (without a trace of tartness) wrap around chestnut and a bit of subdued vanilla, creating a dense but delicate delight. Available in the triangle area exclusively from Wine Authorities in Durham. – 04/26/2009

$13.99

4 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Capcanes “Mas Donis” Montsant 2005

Region: Montsant, Spain
Winery: Capcanes
Variety: Grenache(85%), Syrah(15%)

Very nice! Mature, lively, and representative of Tarragona (at large) and Montsant (specifically). Black raspberry and plum merge with white pepper, cedar, and decidedly non-smothering vanilla. This wine has a balance and vigor that many overpriced wines from neighboring Priorat lack. The occupational hazard of overoaking doesn’t rear its ugly head here in the least. This is every bit as solid as the ’04 vintage. Apparently, 35% of the Grenache in this wine comes specifically from Lledoner Pelut/Garnacha Peluda, which is a rare and high-quality variation on standard Grenache (maybe helping to explain how well this wine has stood up to nine months in barrel and three years in the bottle – somewhat atypical for inexpensive Grenache). – 04/26/2009

$14.99

4 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Cave de Rasteau Hauts du Village 2000

Region: Rasteau (Cotes-du- Rhone Villages)
Winery: Cave de Rasteau (Renamed Ortas)
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre

Unfortunately, this wine is now considerably past its prime (and completely falls apart after just a few minutes in the glass), but it had been a lovely example of rich, elegant southern Rhone in its youth – filled with purple fruits, spicy garrigue, savory earth and white pepper. I happened upon a bottle recently, and felt compelled to see if it might still be drinking well, but alas… – 04/24/2009

$24.99 / $17.99 (when originally tasted)

4 out of 5 stars (based on previous tastings – no longer accurate due to deterioration)

Ortas (Cave de Rasteau) Cotes du Rhone “Les Viguiers” 2007

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: Ortas (Cave de Rasteau)
Variety: Grenache(70%), Carignan(20%),Cinsault(10%)

Superb value filled with red raspberry, light currant, and a fresh combination of white pepper and elegant minerality. This reminds me a bit more of a Navarra Garnacha than what I’m usually looking for from a southern Rhone (as it’s brighter and less earthy), but it’s great. – 04/26/2009

$9.99

4 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Ortas (Cave de Rasteau) Les Hauts du Village 2004

Region: Rasteau
Winery: Ortas (Cave de Rasteau)
Variety: Grenache(35%), Mourvedre(35%),Syrah(30%)

Here we have a savory, rich ambassador for the southern Rhone with a flavor profile that many Chateauneufs could be proud of. Viscous currant and black raspberry yield notes of lovely garrigue, sweet earth, and intoxicating glycerine. Quality-conscious co-op offering. – 04/26/2009

$24.99

4 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Hermann J. Wiemer Reisling “Semi Dry” 2006

Region: Finger Lakes, New York
Winery: Hermann J. Wiemer
Variety: Reisling

Ripe golden apple and citrus fruits merge with clean wet stone, a bit of honey, and a very slight suggestion of petrol. The sweetness is, itself, subtle, but I’m sure that the level of ripeness would place this wine in classic Spatlese territory. – 04/23/2009

$18.99

4 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Chante Cigale Chateneuf-du-Pape VV 2005

Region: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chante Cigale
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault

The 2005 “Vieilles Vignes” from Chante Cigale is predictably ripe and concentrated. The power and depth of its fruit character is countered by refreshing acidity and rich aromas of herbs and an intoxicating floral spice. This is among the Chateauneufs of the recent (excellent) vintages which I feel certain I’ll remember with clarity for some time. – 04/22/2009

$59.99

5 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Louis Bouillot Cremant de Bourgogne “Perle de Vigne” Brut NV

Region: Cote de Nuits
Winery: Louis Bouillot
Variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, Aligote

The Louis Bouillot line of Cremants has long been a staple of good but inexpensive sparkling wine for me. This, their least specialized offering, is not my favorite among their wines, but it remains a very reliable (and for my tastes, frequently preferable) alternative to similarly priced Prosecco. Crisp golden apples, lemon zest, and subtle toasty notes. – 04/21/2009

$15.99

3 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Domaine Fontanyl Cotes de Provence Rose 2008

Region: Cotes de Provence, France
Winery: Domaine Fontanyl
Variety: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah

Refreshing and crisp, this Provencal rose is certainly a very competent representation of its origin. It may be just a bit too linear for my tastes, however. It has all of the key components of good rose from Provence, but its texture isn’t quite as stingingly focused as I prefer, and it doesn’t quite have the aromatic conviction that I look for. All in all, however, it’s a rewarding drink. – 04/21/2009

$11.99

3 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Chateau Faugeres Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Region: Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Winery: Chateau Faugeres

Variety: Merlot(85%), Cabernet Franc(10%), Cabernet Sauvignon(5%)

Really lovely. Firm violet fruit and a suave leathery quality bind together this tight, young wine, but it’s already drinking very rewardingly. For many people, it might be a bit unapproachable for now, but I find Bordeaux like this charming. This is a great wine for shutting up inexperienced Merlot-haters. – 04/20/2009

$39.99

5 out of 5 stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

April 27, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Weekly Vinodrome Reviews

From Winelog.net and Twitter

4/15/2009-4/19/2009

Grognet Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
Region: Cote des Blancs, Champagne, France
Producer: Grognet
Variety: Chardonnay (100%)

A relatively inexpensive (but delicious) champagne which combines lively fruit-driven characteristics with doughy richness.  Impeccable balance. Simultaneously refreshing and indulgent. Imported by Wine Without Borders in Durham, North Carolina. – 04/19/2009

$29.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Phebus Malbec Patagonia 2007
Region: Rio Negro, Argentina
Producer: Vistalba
Variety: Malbec

Coming from Argentina’s coolest wine producing region, the Rio Negro of Patagonia, this Malbec serves as both an inexpensive and exemplary representative of the country’s more southerly contributions to wine. Further removed from the Equatorial influence that helps imbue Mendoza’s Malbecs with their power and richness, the wines of the Rio Negro are frequently leaner and more subtle with nicely balancing acidity and fine tannins. This one very effectively combines gentle spice, berries, chocolate, and an undercurrent of minerality. – 04/19/2009

$11.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner “Reid Sandgrube” 2007
Region: Kremstal, Austria
Producer: Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner
Variety: Gruner Veltliner

White wines of this caliber (in terms of character and balance) are indisputably a rarity. More and more frequently, technology allows for the production of tasty, satisfying wines at very low prices, but this Gruner Veltliner doesn’t owe its strengths to new technologies and techniques. It is a product of its environment and the marvelous varietal used to produce it. The color is pale gold with hints of lime green. Fresh (underripe?) apricots and zesty citrus comprise the fruit character with flinty minerality and notes of something akin to peanut sauce adding interest. Prime introduction to Gruner Veltliner for anyone who has yet to try one. – 04/19/2009

$9.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Domaine de Saint-Antoine Rose 2008
Region: Languedoc (VDP d’Oc), France
Producer: Domaine de Saint-Antoine
Variety: Grenache, Syrah

Having been a reliable rose year after year, the Saint-Antoine manages to have, for my tastes, improved in its 2008 vintage. It retains its red raspberry and subtle cranberry character while enjoying a lighter, crisper texture and brighter color. While it’s a bit heavier than the Provencal roses that I tend to like best, I find this very refreshing and full of life.  A Robert Katcher Selection. – 04/18/2009

$9.99

Three out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Vinedos de El Seque Alicante 2007
Region: Alicante
Producer: El Sequé
Variety: Monastrell (Mourvedre), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon

The second label of El Seque in Alicante, this is produced in a more fruit driven (yet still intense) style. The 2007 vintage is a sizable improvement over other recent years, composed of focused, more refreshing fruit character and a chiseled minerality which was previously absent. This is a much more competent younger sibling to the upper tier El Seque wine. An Eric Solomon/European Cellars selection. Produced by Artadi. – 04/18/2009

$16.99

Three out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Domaine de la Bouysse VDP d’Oc Rouge 2007
Region: Corbieres, France (not Corbieres AOC classified)
Producer: Domaine de la Bouysse
Variety: Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%), Grenache (20%)

Imported by Wine Without Borders and purchased at Wine Authorities. Very nice ripe purple fruits (raspberry, boysenberry, prune) and a vein of fresh earthiness. This is very much like what should be expected from Corbieres, and it isn’t clear why it isn’t classified as such (since the estate appears to fit entirely within the appellation). Very good value. – 04/18/2009

$10.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2008

Region: Coastal Region, South Africa
Producer: Neil Ellis
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc

Bright lime, gooseberry, and guava blend seamlessly with rich flinty minerality and a restrained (but pronounced) grassiness.  Seldom does a new world Sauvignon Blanc compare so favorably to the Loire Valley’s classics (or perform so gracefully at such a reasonable price). This was among our wines at Euro Cafe. – 04/17/2009

$12.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Cantina Sant’Evasio Barbera d’Asti 2007
Region: Asti, Piemonte, Italy
Producer: Cantina Sant’Evasio
Variety: Barbera

Gleaming black fruit purity with a delicate perfume of violet flowers and dark chocolate.  Barbera, to my palate, is somewhat of a minefield. There are numerous elegant, delicious examples, but all too often I find the grape responsible for tart, brittle wines. The more expensive ones are typically safe, but seldom do I encounter one at $12 or thereabouts with the approachability and finesse of this.  Another great value imported locally (Triangle area, NC) by Haw River Wine Man.  – 04/17/2009

$11.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Domaine Le Garrigon VDP de Mediterranee 2007
Region: Vin de Pays de Medierranee (Drome department)
Producer: Domaine Le Garrigon
Variety: Syrah (60%), Grenache (40%)

Great, great value. I bought this yesterday (4/16/09) at Wine Authorities in Durham, and their tasting notes were spot on – this is indeed very reminiscent of many young Northern Rhones (sold however for less than half the price of most). This is essentially a nine dollar wine with a twenty five dollar aroma, filled with sweet earth, bitter chocolate, and subtle Mediterranean herbs. The wine’s texture is a bit unaccommodating, but I expect that to improve considerably with slightly more time in the bottle. – 04/17/2009

$8.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Ken Forrester Petit Chenin
Region: Stellenbosch, South Africa
Producer: Ken Forrester
Variety: Chenin Blanc

Underripe honeydew, McIntosh apples, and lemon zest with spicey floral notes and a touch of orange marmelade.  This crisp, charismatic white is a great example of South African Chenin Blanc. Though it may lack some of the more clearly defined minerality of its more expensive counterparts, Ken Forrester’s least expensive Chenin offers an unobstructed view of how well the grape performs in its favorite adoptive homeland.  – 04/16/2009

$9.99Three out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

Cotes de Provence Rose 2008
Region: France

Producer: Domaine Houchart
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet

Classic rose from Provence. Pale and subtly colored with lively acidity and a healthy tartness which helps to further its refreshing appeal. This is just what I’m in the mood for on many hazy spring afternoons. – 04/15/2009

$9.99

Four out of Five stars

(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)

April 20, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment