Vinodrome

Vinodrome Notes Vol. 6

6/12/2009

This week features wines from Crozes-Hermitage, Burgundy, the Haut-Medoc, Austria, and more.  The following ratings are based on representative correctness (concerning both place of origin and varietal) and “price-to-value” ratio.

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage “Nouvelere” 2006

Region: Crozes-Hermitage
Winery: Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet
Variety: Syrah

Blackberry, cassis, and mission fig with a distinct Northern Rhone signature of earth, dark chocolate, and leather. The color is deep burgundy with gleams of ruby clarity. I’m completely smitten with this as I’m perpetually craving a really good Northern Rhone (but can seldom afford one). Seaboard Wine Warehouse in Raleigh currently has this at half price!

Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Les Pontaix 2005

Region: Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhone, France
Winery: Jean Claude Fayolle
Variety: Syrah

Savory black raspberries and plum cling to the palette as restrained gamey notes emerge from the mostly fruit-driven aroma. Of the four vintages I’ve tasted, the 2005 “Les Pontaix” is certainly the most enjoyable and the most admirably balanced. This isn’t the best Crozes at its pricepoint, but it’s a wonderful expression of healthy Syrah et terroir.

Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage 2005

Region: Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône, France
Winery: Cave de Tain l’Hermitage
Variety: Syrah

Lean, black purity of cassis and plum with bitter chocolate notes and a gentle touch of oak. At fifteen dollars, it’s certainly not easy to find a better representative of the Northern Rhone, but this wine does lack specificity to some degree. One isn’t overwhelmed when tasting this at the extent to which it is a Crozes-Hermitage, and I would prefer to be overwhelmed in that regard. Still, this wine (not to mention the history-rich Cave de Tain L’Hermitage itself) represents very good value.

Domaine de la Curniere 2006

Region: Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Vignerons de Caractère
Variety: Grenache(80%), Syrah(20%)

Black raspberry, cherry, and dried cranberry with white pepper, violets, and a hint of sweet earth. This wine’s consistency in the mouth suggests leanness and a clearly defined physique comprised of dark fruit.

Santola Vinho Verde 2008

Region: Minho / Vinho Verde, Portugal
Winery: Santola

Lime and crisp granny smith apples with the delicate effervescence that helps to make good Vinho Verde (arguably) the ultimate “patio wine”. This is an archetypal example of fresh, crisp Vinho Verde.

Patrick Javillier Bourgogne Blanc “Cuvee des Forgets” 2006

Region: Savigny Les Beaune, Burgundy, France
Winery: Patrick Javillier
Variety: Chardonnay

Ripe green apple, pear, and soft lemon with a rounded toastiness which compliments the fruit nicely. This 2006 is drinking very well right now (in mid 2009), but it’s difficult to say just how much longer it will maintain its vibrancy. I suspect that it’s wisest to have at it now and look to the 2007 for future enjoyment.

Patrick Javillier Pernand-Vergelesses 2005

Region: Pernand-Vergelesses, Beaune, Burgundy, France
Winery: Patrick Javillier
Variety: Pinot Noir

Lean cherry and currant with pronounced meaty notes and a generous smoky undercurrent. Despite the chiseled (and somewhat austere) quality of the fruit, there manages to be a hedonistic richness about this wine which is very satisfying. Decanting is a must for the time being.

Machard de Gramont Chorey-les-Beaune “Les Beaumonts” 2005

Region: Chorey-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France
Winery: Domaine A. Machard de Gramont
Variety: Pinot Noir

Plum and black cherry with creamy notes of vanilla and spicy oak. This is an elegant Beaune Pinot at a fair price. It is a bit imbalanced, however, tasting a bit sharp upon opening and losing too much of its fruit and energy after decanting. Overall, it’s a good option at the twenty dollar mark, but the Domaine (which is based out of Nuits-Saint-Georges) not surprisingly performs better with its more expensive wines.

Louis Bouillot Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs “Perle de Nuit” Brut NV

Region: Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy, France
Winery: Louis Bouillot
Variety: Pinot Noir, Gamay

Pear, apple, and fresh fig with an ever so slight kiss of toast. There is a yeasty undertone which adds to an impression of fullness without confusing the bright youthfulness which is probably the wine’s strongest attribute. Over the years, I’ve relied heavily on the Louis Bouillot series great everyday values in bubbly.

Chateau D’Arcins Haut-Medoc 2005

Region: Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, France
Winery: Chateau D’Arcins
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Cassis and plumb with a bit of vanilla and cedar. Pleasantly vegetative with a hint of something which might resemble kale or parsley on the finish. This is from just southwest of Saint-Julien. – 06/10/2009

Chateau Tour du Mayne Haut-Medoc 2005. 1, 2009

Region: Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, France
Winery: Chateau D’Arcins
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Bold plum and currant with brambly herbs and complexity-boosting oak influence. There’s a bit of dark chocolate and leather on the finish. Ripe and approachable (even if a bit on the austere side).

Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner “Gmork” 2007

Region: Wagram / Donauland, Austria
Winery: Anton Bauer
Variety: Gruner Veltliner

Asian pear and ripe green apple with zesty citrus and well-defined mineral undertones. This is a great example of how competently many Gruner Veltliners merge refreshing airiness with depth of character and deliciousness.

Anton Bauer Rose 2008

Region: Wagram / Donauland, Austria
Winery: Anton Bauer
Variety: Blauer Zweigelt(34%), Syrah(33%), Merlot(33%)

Round strawberry and red raspberry with hints of violet or lilac. The wine’s expressive aroma is very compelling, and there is an admirable richness of flavor, but I would prefer a sharper more refreshing texture from a youthful rose such as this.

La Doria Gavi 2007

Region: Gavi, Piemonte, Italy
Winery: Villa Lanata
Variety: Cortese

Passionfruit and tangerine supplemented by soft floral notes. The acidity has fallen off considerably for a Gavi which has been in the bottle for one year only. It’s pleasant, but slightly disappointing in the department of vitality.

• $13.99

• 3/5 Stars.

June 13, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment

Vinodrome Reviews Vol. 5

5/31/2009

The following ratings are based on representative correctness (concerning both place of origin and varietal) and “price-to-value” ratio.

El Castro de Valtuille Bierzo Mencia Joven 2007

Region: Bierzo, Leon, Spain
Winery: Bodega y Vinedos Castro Ventosa
Variety: Mencia

Raspberry, redcurrant, and black cherry with bright minerality. Youthful acidity adds to an overall impression of zest and focus. I suspect, however, that I might be inclined to appreciate this wine more in a year or so (when its texture will have, presumably, become a bit softer).

Mas Carlot Marsanne – Roussanne Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007

Eastern Languedoc (Vin de Pays d’Oc), France
Winery: Mas Carlot
Variety: Marsanne(60%), Roussanne(40%)

Ripe Asian pear and tropical fruit intermingle with summer flowers and lively spice. This is a great (and sensitively priced) alternative to more expensive Rhone whites, proudly representing the style’s most desirable qualities. Highly recommended!

Villa Giada Barbera d’Asti 2007

Region: Asti, Piemonte, Italy
Winery: Villa Giada / Andrea Faccio
Variety: Barbera

Black cherry and redcurrant with bright minerality and subtle spicy undertones. An exuberant and youthful wine, this pairs versatilely with light hors-d’oeuvres and cheeses. This wine benefits from malolactic conversion for at least part of the cuvee, resulting in a softer, more opulent consistency than that of many similarly priced Barberas.

Tramin Lagrein Alto-Adige 2005

Region: Suditrol – Alto Adige, Italy
Winery: Cantina Tramin
Variety: Lagrein

Plum, black raspberry, and cherry with threads of spicy minerality and chocolate. A pleasant tartness helps the wine to remain conspicuous on the palate. The Lagrein grape, an unlikely relative of Syrah and Pinot Noir, is capable of producing serious (and seriously delicious) reds in Alto Adige, where red wine is clearly a minority.

Chateau de Segries Cotes-du-Rhone 2007

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau de Segries
Variety: Grenache(50%), Syrah(30%), Cinsault(10%), Carignon(10%)

Indulgent flavors of raspberry and cherry reveal notes of white pepper and thyme. Chiseled acidity and fine tannins add to a refreshing and savory quality. This extroverted young wine is drinking very generously right now, but might improve over the course of the next year. – 05/28/2009

E. Guigal Cotes Du Rhone 2005

Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: E. Guigal
Variety: Syrah(55%), Grenache(45%)

Now here is a Cotes-du-Rhone which could easily pass as a representative for one of the region’s more exalted villages. Blackberry, currant, and black raspberry woven through layers of pepper and garrigue. This pairs beautifully with braised lamb over baked Turkish figs and caramelized onions. A truly remarkable value.

Chateau L’Ermitage Nimes Rouge 2007

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chateau L’Ermitage
Variety: Grenache(70%), Syrah(30%)

Concentrated raspberry and cherry with spice and a bit of pepper. A fairly generic but very apt example of the current wave of young 2007 Rhones.

Tegernseerhof Zweigelt Rose 2008

Region: Niederosterrich(Lower Austria), Austria
Winery: Tegernseerhof
Variety: Blauer Zweigelt

Bright redcurrant, tart raspberry, and strawberry wrapped in delicious waves of mouth-tingling acidity. This is one of the most pleasant roses I’ve had so far this year. Utterly indulgent and refreshing!

Phillipe Le Hardi Mercurey Premier Cru 2005

Region: Mercurey, Cote Chalonnaise, Burgandy, France
Winery: Phillipe Le Hardi
Variety: Pinot Noir

I’ve always enjoyed the whites from Phillipe Le Hardy, but very seldom the reds. This, however, is an enjoyable Burgundy at a relatively low price. Pleasantly tart black cherry and wild berries with hints of vanilla and toast. Praiseworthy concentration and depth of color. I can’t help, however, but think that the overall personality of this wine would better suit something like Barbera than Chalonnaise Pinot Noir.

Carchelo “C” Jumilla 2007

Region: Jumilla, Spain
Winery: Bodegas Carchelo
Variety: Monastrell(40%), Syrah(40%), Cabernet Sauvignon(20%)

Plum, black raspberry, and redcurrant with underlying spice and dark chocolate gaining resonance as the wine breathes. The balance here of youthful assertiveness and (somewhat concealed) depth of character make this a very enjoyable red.

Korta Carmenere 2007

Region: Sagrada Familia – Lontue Valley, Chile
Winery: Korta
Variety: Carmenere(85%), Cabernet Sauvignon(8%), other varietals(7%)

Ripe blackberry and plum exude notes of milk chocolate and jalapeño pepper (without the heat, of course). An interesting note of brambly vegetation emerges (without being vegetal) and nicely complements the oaken flavors derived from twelve months in French and American barrels.

Redi Rosso di Montepulciano 2005

Region: Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy
Winery: Cantina Del Redi (Vecchia Cantina)
Variety: Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile), Canaiolo, Mammolo

Cherry and somewhat tart wild berries underscored by herbs and a hint of wood. There is something oddly briny on the nose that I don’t know how to account for, and that particular quality takes the enjoyability down a notch or so. However, the fruit character is pleasant, and the texture is appealing.

Chateau Corconnac Haut-Medoc 2003

Region: Haut-Medoc
Winery: Teynac et Corconnac
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon(70%, 30%)

Cassis and plum with well integrated notes of oak and an appropriately vegitative quality. The ripeness and roundness of fruit provide the Corconnac with a specific character that I’ve grown to associate with 2003 in Left-Bank Bordeaux. A bit more acidity could have improved the texture. Overall, a rewarding wine at a good price.

• $14.99

• 3.5/5 Stars.

June 1, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome . Comments: Leave a comment