Vinodrome

Weekly Vinodrome Reviews

4/29/2009-5/11/2009

Jean-Luc Colombo Syrah “La Violette” VDP d’Oc 2006
Region: Eastern Languedoc, France (Vin de Pays d’Oc)
Winery: Jean-Luc Colombo
Variety: Syrah

Ripe blackberryand plum merge with Provencal herbs and black pepper. There is a pleasant chewy quality supported by vanilla and a touch of cedar, but a subtle tartness interferes with the texture and limits the wine’s enjoyability. The somewhat hard to find Colombo northern Cotes du Rhone “Les Forots” Syrah is a few dollars more, but more exciting.

Region: Valpolicella, Italy
Winery: Ca Rugate
Variety: Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%), Rondinella (30%)

Not strictly made as a “Ripasso,” this offering from Ca Rugate is more like an adolescent Amarone produced largely from grapes which have been dried (for roughly half the time as those destined for Amarone). Rich purple fruit, chocolate, and spicy toast make this a memorable wine.

Region: Sonoma County, California
Winery: Ridge Vineyards
Variety: Zinfandel(80%), Petite Sirah(10%), Carignan(5%), Grenache(5%)

Immersive black raspberry and blueberry wrapped around a core of smoke, white pepper, and herbs. Ridge has always been more than capable of proving the potential seriousness and elegance of the Zinfandel grape and its capacity for successful terroir-driven application.

Region: Valpolicella Classico, Verona, Italy
Winery: Santi
Variety: Corvina(65%), Rondinella(30%), Molinara(5%)

Full and supple, the Santi “Solane” is an apt example of both Valpolicella as a region and its lovely Ripasso wines (frequently offering a rare combination of bold concentration and easily approached roundness). Mission fig, plum, and sweet red cherries largely comprise the fruit character with creamy vanilla oak and clove adding interest.

Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache(70%) Syrah(30%)

Vivid strawberry, cranberry, and white-fleshed plum punctuate this refreshing rose from Nimes. Brimming with life and bright acidity, this is a wonderful treat for late spring and is very enjoyable with unsweetened strawberries just short of ripeness. Youthful and charming!

Region: Seixas, Portugal
Winery: Quinta do Feital
Variety: Alvarinho/Albarino(50%), Trajadura(50%)

Bright white peach, cantaloupe, and tangerine with spicy minerality and wispy floral nuances. The overall impression is that of something vibrant and valuable in its exotic wisdom. Delicious!

Montresor “Castello di Soave” Soave Classico 2008

Region: Soave, Verona, Italy
Winery: Giacomo Montresor
Variety: Gargenega(80%), Verdicchio(20%)

Crisp (pre-ripe) nectarine and a touch of orange converge with light minerality and a bit of peanut or almond. The overall impression is very pleasant, but the flavor and sensation of alcohol are maybe a bit too pervasive.

Region: Valdobbiadene, Italy
Winery: Nino Franco
Variety: Prosecco di Valdobbiadene

Fuji apple and subtle spring blossoms emerge from the frothy surface of Nino Franco’s “entry-level” Prosecco. A delicate, airy texture adds to its wholesome and refreshing quality.

Region: Vacqueyras, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Vignerons de Caractère
Variety: Grenache(70%), Syrah(20%), Mourvedre(10%)

Round plum, candied raspberry, and currant comprise the fruit character with notes of chocolate, tobacco, and lavender gently emanating from within. The wines of the Vingnerons de Caracter have grown much more exciting over a remarkably short half-decade or so (though they’ve been around since 1957). They’re definitely producing their Vacqueyras in a contemporary fruit-forward style utilizing an average of 30% carbonic maceration in their various cuvees.

Region: Bordeaux
Winery: Chateau Les Trois Croix
Variety: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Plum and black cherry with fresh herbs and coffee. I wouldn’t accuse this wine of having aged poorly, but it was certainly more enjoyable in its youth when it benefited from healthier acidity and more brazen dark fruit character.

Region: Coteaux du Languedoc, France
Winery: Chateau de Montpezat
Variety: Grenache(80%), Mourvedre(20%)

Filled with bold earth and ripe purple fruits, the “Palombieres” has both a taught spine and plenty of meat on its bones. A trace of vanilla from twelve months in barrel is mostly obscured by the wine’s fruit and terroir-driven characteristics. A Robert Kacher selection.

Region: Navarra, Spain
Winery: Artazu (Artadi)
Variety: Garnacha

Fresh, extroverted aromas of crisp red raspberry and currant. Lively on the palate, ribboned with white pepper and an invigorating mineral purity. The Artazuri is produced in a style largely dissimilar to the estate’s “Santa Cruz,” but the two have in common their aromatic intensity, Grenache-driven charisma, and generosity of flavor. Lovely.

Region: Cote de Nuits
Winery: Louis Bouillot
Variety: Pinot Noir

Bright strawberry, raspberry, and white-fleshed plum. There’s certainly a detectable richness of yeast, but the overall impression is that of refreshing crispness and youthful energy. Very pretty salmon hue.

Region: Douro, Portugal
Winery: Quinta de Ventozelo
Variety: Codega(30%), Gouveio(30%), Viosinho(20%), Rabigato(20%)

Racy and refreshing, filled with crisp green fruits like lime, kiwi, and Uzbek cantaloupe. I’m not certain about the origin of the title “Cister da Ribeira,” but it seems as though it may have been part of the historical identity that later contributed to the Quinta de Ventozelo (which basically over-delivers in terms of value with each release). Nice spring/summer quaff which isn’t overly simple.

May 15, 2009
Categories: Uncategorized . . Author: vinodrome

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