Weekly Vinodrome Reviews
4/20/2009-4/27/2009
Region: Alicante
Winery: El Sequé
Variety: Monastrell (Mourvedre)
Veritably opaque in the glass (deep ruby with bright garnet at the rim), this is certainly a powerhouse. Contrary to its color, however, it is far from being a viscous mess. Lively acidity, freshness of fruit and a marked minerality make the balance marvelous (even if in a slightly Robert Parkeresque sort of way). Concentrated black plum, cassis, and black cherry are supplemented with a rich canopy of spices and herbs. Highly recommended. – 04/27/2009
$44.99
5 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Chateau De Nages “Reserve White” Costieres de Nimes 2006
Region: Costieres de Nimes, Rhône, France
Winery: Chateau De Nages / Michel Gassier
Variety: Grenache Blanc(60%), Roussanne(40%)
Pear, white peach, and honeysuckle are the prime facets of this lovely Nimes Blanc. Ripe, round fruit is tempered nicely with crisp acidity and bright floral notes. – 04/27/2009
$9.99
3 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Michel Gassier “Les Piliers” Syrah 2005
Region: Costieres de Nimes
Winery: Michel Gassier / Ch de Nages
Variety: Syrah
Dense, dark, and brimming with sweet earthy undercurrents, the “Les Piliers” Syrah is a rich Mediterranean expression of the varietal. Cassis, blackberry, and prune smother a tapestry of spices and vanilla. Pairs beautifully with an Ethiopian-fusion lamb&lentil dish prepared with turmeric, cumin, curry, and paprika over injera bread. – 04/27/2009
$14.99
4 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Region: Anjou, Loire, France
Winery: Noel Bougrier / Les Caves de l’Angevine
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Bright, clear ruby in the glass with a trace of magenta, the Bougrier Rose d’Anjou has a wonderfully expressive nose of ripe raspberry, strawberry, and red plum. This was very enjoyable with a plate of chicken and shrimp lightly seasoned with sesame oil. – 04/27/2009
$9.99
3 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Conde de Vimioso Ribatejano 2006
Region: Ribatejano, Portugal
Winery: Falua
Variety: Touriga Nacional, Aragones (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon
Certainly a wine which well over-delivers at its price, the Conde de Vimioso falls (both geographically and stylistically) somewhere between Douro and Alentejano. Cassis, mission fig, dried cranberry (without a trace of tartness) wrap around chestnut and a bit of subdued vanilla, creating a dense but delicate delight. Available in the triangle area exclusively from Wine Authorities in Durham. – 04/26/2009
$13.99
4 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Capcanes “Mas Donis” Montsant 2005
Region: Montsant, Spain
Winery: Capcanes
Variety: Grenache(85%), Syrah(15%)
Very nice! Mature, lively, and representative of Tarragona (at large) and Montsant (specifically). Black raspberry and plum merge with white pepper, cedar, and decidedly non-smothering vanilla. This wine has a balance and vigor that many overpriced wines from neighboring Priorat lack. The occupational hazard of overoaking doesn’t rear its ugly head here in the least. This is every bit as solid as the ’04 vintage. Apparently, 35% of the Grenache in this wine comes specifically from Lledoner Pelut/Garnacha Peluda, which is a rare and high-quality variation on standard Grenache (maybe helping to explain how well this wine has stood up to nine months in barrel and three years in the bottle – somewhat atypical for inexpensive Grenache). – 04/26/2009
$14.99
4 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Cave de Rasteau Hauts du Village 2000
Region: Rasteau (Cotes-du- Rhone Villages)
Winery: Cave de Rasteau (Renamed Ortas)
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre
Unfortunately, this wine is now considerably past its prime (and completely falls apart after just a few minutes in the glass), but it had been a lovely example of rich, elegant southern Rhone in its youth – filled with purple fruits, spicy garrigue, savory earth and white pepper. I happened upon a bottle recently, and felt compelled to see if it might still be drinking well, but alas… – 04/24/2009
$24.99 / $17.99 (when originally tasted)
4 out of 5 stars (based on previous tastings – no longer accurate due to deterioration)
Ortas (Cave de Rasteau) Cotes du Rhone “Les Viguiers” 2007
Region: Cotes du Rhone, France
Winery: Ortas (Cave de Rasteau)
Variety: Grenache(70%), Carignan(20%),Cinsault(10%)
Superb value filled with red raspberry, light currant, and a fresh combination of white pepper and elegant minerality. This reminds me a bit more of a Navarra Garnacha than what I’m usually looking for from a southern Rhone (as it’s brighter and less earthy), but it’s great. – 04/26/2009
$9.99
4 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Ortas (Cave de Rasteau) Les Hauts du Village 2004
Region: Rasteau
Winery: Ortas (Cave de Rasteau)
Variety: Grenache(35%), Mourvedre(35%),Syrah(30%)
Here we have a savory, rich ambassador for the southern Rhone with a flavor profile that many Chateauneufs could be proud of. Viscous currant and black raspberry yield notes of lovely garrigue, sweet earth, and intoxicating glycerine. Quality-conscious co-op offering. – 04/26/2009
$24.99
4 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Hermann J. Wiemer Reisling “Semi Dry” 2006
Region: Finger Lakes, New York
Winery: Hermann J. Wiemer
Variety: Reisling
Ripe golden apple and citrus fruits merge with clean wet stone, a bit of honey, and a very slight suggestion of petrol. The sweetness is, itself, subtle, but I’m sure that the level of ripeness would place this wine in classic Spatlese territory. – 04/23/2009
$18.99
4 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Chante Cigale Chateneuf-du-Pape VV 2005
Region: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone, France
Winery: Chante Cigale
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault
The 2005 “Vieilles Vignes” from Chante Cigale is predictably ripe and concentrated. The power and depth of its fruit character is countered by refreshing acidity and rich aromas of herbs and an intoxicating floral spice. This is among the Chateauneufs of the recent (excellent) vintages which I feel certain I’ll remember with clarity for some time. – 04/22/2009
$59.99
5 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Louis Bouillot Cremant de Bourgogne “Perle de Vigne” Brut NV
Region: Cote de Nuits
Winery: Louis Bouillot
Variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, Aligote
The Louis Bouillot line of Cremants has long been a staple of good but inexpensive sparkling wine for me. This, their least specialized offering, is not my favorite among their wines, but it remains a very reliable (and for my tastes, frequently preferable) alternative to similarly priced Prosecco. Crisp golden apples, lemon zest, and subtle toasty notes. – 04/21/2009
$15.99
3 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Domaine Fontanyl Cotes de Provence Rose 2008
Region: Cotes de Provence, France
Winery: Domaine Fontanyl
Variety: Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah
Refreshing and crisp, this Provencal rose is certainly a very competent representation of its origin. It may be just a bit too linear for my tastes, however. It has all of the key components of good rose from Provence, but its texture isn’t quite as stingingly focused as I prefer, and it doesn’t quite have the aromatic conviction that I look for. All in all, however, it’s a rewarding drink. – 04/21/2009
$11.99
3 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Chateau Faugeres Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005
Region: Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux, France
Winery: Chateau Faugeres
Variety: Merlot(85%), Cabernet Franc(10%), Cabernet Sauvignon(5%)
Really lovely. Firm violet fruit and a suave leathery quality bind together this tight, young wine, but it’s already drinking very rewardingly. For many people, it might be a bit unapproachable for now, but I find Bordeaux like this charming. This is a great wine for shutting up inexperienced Merlot-haters. – 04/20/2009
$39.99
5 out of 5 stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
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