Weekly Vinodrome Reviews
From Winelog.net and Twitter
4/15/2009-4/19/2009
Grognet Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
Region: Cote des Blancs, Champagne, France
Producer: Grognet
Variety: Chardonnay (100%)
A relatively inexpensive (but delicious) champagne which combines lively fruit-driven characteristics with doughy richness. Impeccable balance. Simultaneously refreshing and indulgent. Imported by Wine Without Borders in Durham, North Carolina. – 04/19/2009
$29.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Phebus Malbec Patagonia 2007
Region: Rio Negro, Argentina
Producer: Vistalba
Variety: Malbec
Coming from Argentina’s coolest wine producing region, the Rio Negro of Patagonia, this Malbec serves as both an inexpensive and exemplary representative of the country’s more southerly contributions to wine. Further removed from the Equatorial influence that helps imbue Mendoza’s Malbecs with their power and richness, the wines of the Rio Negro are frequently leaner and more subtle with nicely balancing acidity and fine tannins. This one very effectively combines gentle spice, berries, chocolate, and an undercurrent of minerality. – 04/19/2009
$11.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner “Reid Sandgrube” 2007
Region: Kremstal, Austria
Producer: Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner
Variety: Gruner Veltliner
White wines of this caliber (in terms of character and balance) are indisputably a rarity. More and more frequently, technology allows for the production of tasty, satisfying wines at very low prices, but this Gruner Veltliner doesn’t owe its strengths to new technologies and techniques. It is a product of its environment and the marvelous varietal used to produce it. The color is pale gold with hints of lime green. Fresh (underripe?) apricots and zesty citrus comprise the fruit character with flinty minerality and notes of something akin to peanut sauce adding interest. Prime introduction to Gruner Veltliner for anyone who has yet to try one. – 04/19/2009
$9.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Domaine de Saint-Antoine Rose 2008
Region: Languedoc (VDP d’Oc), France
Producer: Domaine de Saint-Antoine
Variety: Grenache, Syrah
Having been a reliable rose year after year, the Saint-Antoine manages to have, for my tastes, improved in its 2008 vintage. It retains its red raspberry and subtle cranberry character while enjoying a lighter, crisper texture and brighter color. While it’s a bit heavier than the Provencal roses that I tend to like best, I find this very refreshing and full of life. A Robert Katcher Selection. – 04/18/2009
$9.99
Three out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Vinedos de El Seque Alicante 2007
Region: Alicante
Producer: El Sequé
Variety: Monastrell (Mourvedre), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
The second label of El Seque in Alicante, this is produced in a more fruit driven (yet still intense) style. The 2007 vintage is a sizable improvement over other recent years, composed of focused, more refreshing fruit character and a chiseled minerality which was previously absent. This is a much more competent younger sibling to the upper tier El Seque wine. An Eric Solomon/European Cellars selection. Produced by Artadi. – 04/18/2009
$16.99
Three out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Domaine de la Bouysse VDP d’Oc Rouge 2007
Region: Corbieres, France (not Corbieres AOC classified)
Producer: Domaine de la Bouysse
Variety: Carignan (50%), Syrah (30%), Grenache (20%)
Imported by Wine Without Borders and purchased at Wine Authorities. Very nice ripe purple fruits (raspberry, boysenberry, prune) and a vein of fresh earthiness. This is very much like what should be expected from Corbieres, and it isn’t clear why it isn’t classified as such (since the estate appears to fit entirely within the appellation). Very good value. – 04/18/2009
$10.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2008
Region: Coastal Region, South Africa
Producer: Neil Ellis
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Bright lime, gooseberry, and guava blend seamlessly with rich flinty minerality and a restrained (but pronounced) grassiness. Seldom does a new world Sauvignon Blanc compare so favorably to the Loire Valley’s classics (or perform so gracefully at such a reasonable price). This was among our wines at Euro Cafe. – 04/17/2009
$12.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Cantina Sant’Evasio Barbera d’Asti 2007
Region: Asti, Piemonte, Italy
Producer: Cantina Sant’Evasio
Variety: Barbera
Gleaming black fruit purity with a delicate perfume of violet flowers and dark chocolate. Barbera, to my palate, is somewhat of a minefield. There are numerous elegant, delicious examples, but all too often I find the grape responsible for tart, brittle wines. The more expensive ones are typically safe, but seldom do I encounter one at $12 or thereabouts with the approachability and finesse of this. Another great value imported locally (Triangle area, NC) by Haw River Wine Man. – 04/17/2009
$11.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Domaine Le Garrigon VDP de Mediterranee 2007
Region: Vin de Pays de Medierranee (Drome department)
Producer: Domaine Le Garrigon
Variety: Syrah (60%), Grenache (40%)
Great, great value. I bought this yesterday (4/16/09) at Wine Authorities in Durham, and their tasting notes were spot on – this is indeed very reminiscent of many young Northern Rhones (sold however for less than half the price of most). This is essentially a nine dollar wine with a twenty five dollar aroma, filled with sweet earth, bitter chocolate, and subtle Mediterranean herbs. The wine’s texture is a bit unaccommodating, but I expect that to improve considerably with slightly more time in the bottle. – 04/17/2009
$8.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Ken Forrester Petit Chenin
Region: Stellenbosch, South Africa
Producer: Ken Forrester
Variety: Chenin Blanc
Underripe honeydew, McIntosh apples, and lemon zest with spicey floral notes and a touch of orange marmelade. This crisp, charismatic white is a great example of South African Chenin Blanc. Though it may lack some of the more clearly defined minerality of its more expensive counterparts, Ken Forrester’s least expensive Chenin offers an unobstructed view of how well the grape performs in its favorite adoptive homeland. – 04/16/2009
$9.99Three out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
Cotes de Provence Rose 2008
Region: France
Producer: Domaine Houchart
Variety: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet
Classic rose from Provence. Pale and subtly colored with lively acidity and a healthy tartness which helps to further its refreshing appeal. This is just what I’m in the mood for on many hazy spring afternoons. – 04/15/2009
$9.99
Four out of Five stars
(Determined by Price to Value Ratio and Representative Correctness)
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